The Sport of Kings by Darren G. Burton

Early Beginnings

Surfing in one form or another has been in existence for possibly thousands of years. There is no actual proof of when surfing (or wave riding) began and historians can only guess at its origins and evolution.

It is widely believed and accepted that surfing started in the Polynesian culture, more specifically in Tahiti. Tahitians were known to play in the surf on belly boards and are said to have occasionally stood up on these boards.

Polynesians from Tahiti began arriving in the Hawaiian Islands during the fourth century A.D., and they brought their primitive ‘surfing’ culture with them. However, it is the Hawaiians who are widely credited with actually mastering the art of standing upright on long boards. Surfing wasn’t invented in Hawaii, but Hawaiians went a long way towards perfecting the pastime.

Hawaii was ruled by a code of kapu (taboos), and this code regulated everything in life; including surfing. The Hawaiian society was divided into two distinct classes; the royal and common classes. Only Hawaiian chiefs were allowed to ride waves on certain beaches and reefs, while commoners had their own designated surfing zones. Albeit to say, the chiefs had the ideal spots with the best and most consistent waves.

Commoners rode waves either lying down (prone), kneeling or standing up on boards measuring around twelve feet in length. These boards were known as the Alaia board and were carved from wood, with a rounded nose and a square tail. The deck was concave and the bottom curved to aid stability, as there were no fins in those days. The Alaia was about eighteen inches across at its widest point and about an inch and a half thick.

The chiefs, on the other hand, rode monstrous boards anywhere up to twenty-four feet long. Their boards were known as the Olo board and were carved from koa wood. The design was very similar to the Alaia, just considerably longer. This ancient form of surfboard was reserved for the chiefs and royals only.

Kaumuali’i and Kamehameha I were two of Hawaii’s most famous chiefs, and both were renowned for their surfing prowess and ability to ride the long board. They were revered by the commoners for their skill and courage in riding Hawaii’s big waves.

The Arrival of Captain Cook

By the time Captain James Cook arrived from Tahiti on the first recorded visit to Hawaii in 1778, surfing was deeply embedded into Hawaiian culture and legend and had reached quite a sophisticated level. So much so that many places in Hawaii were named after legendary surfing incidents. Chiefs and commoners alike forged legends and made themselves famous for their mastery of the waves and the way they conquered the infamous Hawaiian breaks.

When Captain Cook was tragically killed at Kealakekua Bay for attempting to kidnap a high chief in return for a stolen boat, the task of recording events went to First Lieutenant James King. Lieutenant King wais responsible for transcribing the first ever written account by a European on surfing in the Hawaiian Islands.

Upon the publishing of King’s report, Hawaii experienced a sudden influx of foreigners and Hawaiian culture was forever changed. Surfing in the region went into a major decline for more than a hundred and fifty years. The kapu system crumbled and so too did the surfing rituals of the Hawaiians. Christian missionaries undermined the culture, forcing Hawaiians to work more and play less. Sadly, surfing was discouraged and Hawaiians quickly lost interest in the sport.

Despite this diminishing interest, and the rapidly declining number of Hawaiian natives due to the introduction of diseases and debaucherous lifestyles by foreign settlers, surfing did manage to survive in the islands throughout the 1800s. Occasionally even visitors tried their hand. However, by the end of the 19th Century, surfing had all but vanished from Hawaii. Reefs where hundreds of Hawaiians had once gathered were now occupied by solitary surfers, and surfing was basically confined to small locations on the south shore of Oahu, and few spots on Kauai, Maui and the other islands.

Surfing’s Resurgence

In a touch of irony, it was actually three foreigners who were responsible for a renewed interest in surfing in Hawaii, and one Hawaiian native who helped proliferate surfing throughout the world.

The year was 1907. Best-selling novelist, Jack London, came to Hawaii and arrived in Waikiki. There he met wandering journalist Alexander Hume Ford. Ford introduced London to surfing, where London came in contact with an Irish/Hawaiian named George Freeth. With London being an accomplished writer, Ford a great organiser and Freeth a champion in the water, the three teamed up through a common love of surfing to breath much needed life into a floundering sport and pastime.

The trio dubbed surfing: The Sport of Kings.

That same year London wrote a story called ‘A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki’ which was published in October, 1907. In his story Ford wrote glowing reviews about the sport, and in particular about the surfing exploits of George Freeth. Subsequently Freeth was invited to put on a demonstration of wave riding in southern California by railroad and real estate magnate, Henry Huntington.

Freeth earned the title and fame of being ‘The first man to surf in California’.

Officially he was the first man to surf the Californian breaks, but unofficially he wasn’t. Years before in 1885 three Hawaiian princes visiting Santa Cruz were reportedly riding redwood boards at the San Lorenzo Rivermouth.

While London wrote and Freeth surfed, Alexander Hume Ford campaigned on behalf of surfing. In 1908 his petitioning of the powers that be resulted in the founding of the first official modern club dedicated to the art of wave riding. That club was the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club, and it offered facilities for dressing and surfboard storage. Three years prior native Hawaiians had established the informal Hui Nalu (surf club). Both clubs combined efforts to commence friendly surfing competitions.

During that era one Hawaiian native surfer stood out among the rest. He was famous not only for his surfing, but also for his swimming; being a three times world record holder for the 100 metres freestyle.

His name was Duke Paoa Kahanamoku.

En route to the summer Olympics in Stockholm in 1912, Duke passed through southern California and put on surfing demonstrations in Santa Monica and Corona del Mar. His surfing feats caused a much greater stir and interest in surfing that did Freeth’s efforts a few years before. Duke went on to win gold medals in two consecutive Olympics. He was the fastest swimmer on the planet. His fame grew. He was a celebrity. Acting opportunities came his way. He traveled much, and everywhere he travelled and every opportunity he had, Duke would promote his greatest love to the world: Surfing.

Surfing Introduced to Australia

The year was 1915. Duke was a busy man, globe-trotting to compete in sporting carnivals and exhibitions. He was invited to give a swimming demonstration in Sydney at the Domain Baths by the NSW Swimming Association. Even way back then Australians had cultivated a love affair with beaches and the ocean. Duke fashioned an eight feet, six inch long surfboard out of Australian sugar pine, then at Freshwater Beach in Manly on January 15th, 1915, Duke rode that board to the delight and thrill of the sport-hungry Australian public. Thousands had gathered to witness the historic event.

On that same day Duke invited a girl, Isabel Latham, to ride with him in a tandem demonstration. She became famous for being the first Australian to ride a surfboard. The first Australian man taught the art of wave riding was Freshwater Surf Club member, Claude West, who later went on to become the first Australian Board Riding Champion. The surfboard fashioned by Duke was given to West.

As with George Freeth’s efforts in southern California a few years prior, it has recently been refuted that Duke was not the first person to ride a surfboard on Australian waves. Recent evidence shows that surfing had been in existence on the beaches of Manly as early as 1911, with Australians bringing surfboards back from visits to Hawaii. Charles Paterson, the first president of the North Steyne Surf Lifesaving Club at Manly returned from Hawaii with a surfboard several years before Duke’s arrival. That surfboard was reportedly ridden by locals William and Tommy Walker.

However, regardless of whether Duke Kahanamoku was the first person to ride Australian waves or not, he was largely responsible for inspiring a fevered interest in surfing in Australia and putting the country on the global surfing map.

Throughout The 1900s

The introduction and popularity of surfing continued to develop during the 1920s, with much of the credit going to Duke’s continuing travels, success and stardom. More and more friendly contests began to emerge and surfboard design was on the improve.

Solid surfboards remained in use well into the 1930s. These boards were cumbersome, heavy and didn’t float well. Plus, one virtually had to be a super athlete just to get the thing to the beach in the first place. Added to this they had no fins and could only be ridden in a straight line.

Necessity to lighten boards and make them more manoeuvrable led to experiments with hollow surfboards. Wooden framework was covered in plywood and glued into place. These lighter wooden boards were then finished with a coat of varnish. American surfer Tom Blake invented the hollow board in 1926 (he was also the first person to take surfing photographs from in the water). Hollow core surfboards dominated the surfing world until the late 1940s.

The ‘Father of the Modern Surfboard’, Bob Simmons, constantly experimented with surfboard design and came up with the rocker design. In 1935 Tom Blake entered the arena again with the innovation of the fin to add stability and control to surfboards. These two inventions pioneered the way to the surfboard designs we ride today.

During the 1940s Bob Simmons experimented with foam and fibreglass and his pioneering designs were a prelude to the modern day surfboard in its materials.

The Malibu became a popular board of choice in the 50s and 60s, with boards becoming considerably shorter during the 1970s. Also during this era Aussies like Mark Richards introduced the world to the twin fin, followed a few years later with Simon Anderson’s three fin Thruster.

As media exposure of surfing grew, contests around the world - particularly in Australia, California and Hawaii - became more serious affairs and stars began to emerge. Names like Nat Young, Midget Farrelly and Gerry Lopez were household names amongst the surfing community in the 60s and 70s. During the late 1970s, the 80s and 90s the likes of Mark Richards, Tom Carroll, Tom Curren and Kelly Slater rose to stardom. Women’s surfing was becoming increasingly popular, as too were professional contests for women, such as the Roxy Pro. Female stars began to rise: Lane Beachley, Lisa Anderson and Rochelle Bollard, to name but a few.

The Final Statement

Whether it be Australia’s Nat Young riding a 9’ 4” board called ‘Sam’ in the waters of Ocean Beach in San Diego to win the 1966 world contest, or Kelly Slater carving up the swells on a modern day board, surfing has always had an air of style, sophistication and majestic gracefulness.

It truly is the sport of kings.